The answer to: "What shallow water boat anchor should I use?", "What is the best shallow water anchoring system?", and How do I anchor my boat in shallow water?"
There are a great many commercially-made shallow water boat anchors out there, but as you know, they tend to be pretty pricey. Why not make your own with Max-Gain Systems fiberglass and save a ton of money?
Chad Ferguson of the very informative website www.learntocatchcatfish.com has created a great shallow water boat anchor using Max-Gain Systems fiberglass. He has created a complete Do-It-Yourself (DIY) guide on his website: http://www.learntocatchcatfish.com/diy-shallow-water-anchors where he goes in great detail about his search to make a durable, strong, and inexpensive shallow water anchor. Chad has also produced a video (see below) in which he uses his new shallow water anchor and explains the process in detail. His design can be utilized using any size of fiberglass allowing users the ability to anchor larger (or smaller) boats.
Max-Gain Systems fiberglass is most cost efficient method to anchor your boat. Fiberglass is saltwater corrosion proof, keeps you steady in the water with wind and waves, and gives you, by far, the lightest and most cost efficient way to anchor your boat.
DIY Shallow water anchors video
Everything for your shallow water anchor in one place!
Make your own shallow water boat anchor
We have put the Fiberglass , Extension Kits , T-Grips , and Stainless Steel Tips needed to make your own shallow water anchor all in one place for your convenience.
1 inch tube over 3/4 inch CAMO rod with "at least" a 6 inch overlap
Diameter
(OD)
Weight
(lbs)
Wall
Thickness
Length
(ft.)
Color
Stock
Number
Price
Per Piece
Notes
1"
2.00
1/8"
8 ft.
Gray
RT-1-8
$10.00
Fits over 3/4" Solid Rod
1 1/4"
2.40
1/8"
8 ft.
Gray
RT-114-8
$12.00
Fits over 1" Solid Rod
Shipping
There are 3 steps when calculating shipping.
Step 1
For shallow water anchors, you will need the full 8 foot lengths to be shipped, which can be transported by normal carriers such as FedEx. (This length does not require the far more expensive motor-freight shipping that longer goods ..such as a 10 footer.. would.) While FedEx does transport 8 foot long goods, they are considered "oversize" and have additional handling and shipping charges added because of the "dimensional weight". Figure that you can ship a single rod, or as many as 70 pounds of rods in the same box for that same oversize shipping cost. You can mix colors, sizes, etc. in the box as long as you stay under the 70 pound packed weight limit. (Figure that the box and packaging weighs 3 pounds.) With this in mind, many people combine orders with friends or family, and everyone splits the shipping cost for a SUPER deal!
For example: a group of friends in zone 4 go together and order 23 pieces of our 3/4 inch OD solid rod. Several want black, Three want camo, the rest want white. (No problems to mix colors.) Since the group is ordering 10 or more pieces of the same size and price rod. the 3/4 inch OD black or white rods at $16 each, All of those ordering black or white ALSO qualify for a 10% quantity discount, and the cost of each of these rods drops to only $14.40 each!!! The three who ordered the camo rods do not qualify for the 10% discount, because in this example they did not order at least 10 units of the same size and price rod. Our example group splits the $2.00 packing cost and the flat-rate oversize shipping cost to zone 4 of $31.35, and the cost to ship each of the 23 rods is only an average cost of $1.45! The black and white rods each have a delivered cost in this example of $14.40 plus $1.45, or a total cost each of $15.95 each, delivered! The camo rods each cost the $29.95 (they only ordered 3 camo rods, so they did not qualify for the 10% quantity discount), but figuring the rock-bottom average shipping cost of $1.45 each, these camo rod customers enjoy a delivered cost of the $29.95 rod cost+ $1.45 average shipping, for a total delivered cost of only $31.40!
FAQ: How many 8 foot rods fit in a box and keep box weight under 70 pounds?
Once you have your shipping zone, refer to the chart below for the shipping cost to your zone (for anywhere from one piece to 70 pounds of 8 foot goods). The only other charge is a flat $2.00 per order flat-rate packing charge. NOTE: If you order 10 or more pieces of one size (and same price) rod, you get a 10% quantity discount on the price of that merchandise!
Glues such as 50/50 epoxy (consistency of syrup... not filler types with putty consistency), and 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 are best for this application. See gluing discussion at this web address: http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tips.htm
To ensure a good bond, wipe the end of the rod off to remove any excess fiberglass dust or other contaminants.
Be sure to allow time for the particular glue you use to cure before use. Our favorite adhesive is 50/50 epoxy, because of a much shorter curing time.
For installation of T-Grips and Stainless Steel Tips, refer to installation notes included with these items.
The diagrams above and below illustrate how the 10 and 12 foot extension kits should be installed.
T-Grip is glued on to the 6 inch piece of 3/4" solid rod.
3/4" solid rod is inserted a minimum of 4 inches into one side of the 1" round tube.
1" round tube is used as an extension to the 3/4" solid rod. Not a "coupler."
3/4" solid rod, 8 foot section, is inserted and glued into the 1" round tube a minimum of 6 inches.
Stainless Steel Tip is placed on the end of the 3/4" solid rod, 8 foot section.
T-Grips
T-Grip for 3/4 inch (.75") rod
Accepts our white, black, or camo 3/4-inch fiberglass rod
Part Numbers: RSR-34-8W, RSR-34-8B, and RSR-34-8CAMO
T-Grip for 1 inch (1") rod
Accepts our white 1-inch fiberglass rod
Part Numbers: RSR-1-8
T-Grip
T-Grips on each color of 3/4 inch rod
T-Grips on each color of 1 inch rod
Material: Polycarbonate Important Dimensions
Max length 4.448 in / 113.0 mm Max width 3.750 in / 95.26 mm Outer Diameter 1.035 in / 26.32 mm Inner Diameter 0.755 in / 19.15 mm Weight 1.6 oz / 45.36 g
Installation Guide:
Glues such as 50/50 epoxy (consistency of syrup... not filler types with putty consistency), and 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 are best for this application. See gluing discussion at this web address: http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tips.htm
To ensure a good bond, wipe the end of the rod off to remove any excess fiberglass dust or other contaminants.
Be sure to allow time for the particular glue you use to cure before use. Our favorite adhesive is 3M Marine
Adhesive Sealant 5200, which requires AT LEAST 72 hours to cure before use.
Our T-Grips come equipped with a starter indentation to facilitate drilling for inserting a screw through your T-Grip and rod should you wish to do this for temporary attachment and ability to remove the handle. (not necessary with use of 3M 5200 or similar strong adhesives which PERMANENTLY mount the handle).
Material: Polycarbonate Important Dimensions
Max length 4.448 in / 113.0 mm Max width 3.750 in / 95.26 mm Outer Diameter 1.244 in / 31.59 mm Inner Diameter 1.006 in / 25.55 mm Weight 1.6 oz / 45.36 g
Installation Guide:
Glues such as 50/50 epoxy (consistency of syrup... not filler types with putty consistency), and 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 are best for this application. See gluing discussion at this web address: http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tips.htm
To ensure a good bond, wipe the end of the rod off to remove any excess fiberglass dust or other contaminants.
Be sure to allow time for the particular glue you use to cure before use. Our favorite adhesive is 50/50 epoxy, because of a much shorter curing time.
Our T-Grips come equipped with a starter indentation to facilitate drilling for inserting a screw through your T-Grip and rod should you wish to do this for temporary attachment and ability to remove the handle. (not necessary with use of 3M 5200 or similar strong adhesives which PERMANENTLY mount the handle).
Stainless Steel Anchor Tip for 3/4 inch (.75") rod
Accepts our white, black, or camo 3/4-inch fiberglass rod
Part Numbers: RSR-34-8W, RSR-34-8B, and RSR-34-8CAMO
Stainless Steel Tip
Stainless Steel Tips on each color of 3/4 inch rod
Material: Stainless Steel Important Dimensions
Max length 1.508 in / 38.31 mm Outer Diameter 0.782 in / 19.88 mm Inner Diameter 0.740 in / 18.81 mm
Wall Thickness 0.020 in / 0.53 mm Weight 0.8 oz / 22.68 g
Installation Guide:
Glues such as 50/50 epoxy (consistency of syrup... not filler types with putty consistency), and 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 are best for this application. Apply glue to the flat end of the rod plus, a strip on either side of the rod to minimize any air pocket between the stainless tip and the fiberglass rod. Be sure to spin the tip a couple times when seated on the rod to ensure a smear of adhesive all around the rod. To ensure a good bond, wipe the end of the rod off to remove any excess fiberglass dust or other contaminants.
Be sure to allow time for the particular glue you use to cure before use. Our favorite adhesive is 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, which requires AT LEAST 72 hours to cure before use.
If being glued to a previously-used rod, make a fresh cut on the fiberglass rod to remove any loose or damaged fibers, to ensure proper bonding.
Russ Point of Texas, shared with us a great mounting solution that is durable and safe on the anchors.
A small loop of water resistant rope and a stainless ring (widely and cheaply available from marine dealers and hardware stores) attached to a cleat. This is a very cheap and effective way to keep your boat attached to your anchor. Russ says that he has one of these ring mounts installed on each corner of his boat, and one on each side at mid-ship. There is always a mount handy, in a perfect position for any anchoring need. Properly sized rings will also easily accommodate the larger tube diameters of our extension kits!
Scott Silver, one of our customers, (who was a manufacturing process engineer for over 30 years) shared with us his method of coupling rods together for deeper water where the ability to screw them together and take them back apart for storage is needed. ***We have not tried this, and can make no warranties as to suitability or effectiveness, but it looks like useful information to pass along to others! If you do not require the ability to de-couple the rods, our extension kits are a perfect, easy extension solution… MGS
Scott says:
If you want to anchor in water over 7' deep just glue couplings to your 8 foot long x 3/4" Dia. fiberglass rods ( SEE STEPS BELOW and click on pictures ) . Then you can screw two 8' rods together and anchor up to 15' deep and unscrew them for easy storage (works great ! ).
Go to Lowe's or any hardware store and buy a 1/2" galvanized threaded coupling (Lowe's stock # 75962 ) $1.50 each and
buy a 1/2" close rigid nipple (Lowe's Elec Dept stock # 108585 ) $2.23 for 2 of them.
#1. Put 3m-5200 or similar glue on one half of the length of the nipple threads and screw one half of the nipple onto the coupling ,then wipe off any glue on the threads outside the coupling.
#2. Put 3m-5200 or similar glue inside the coupling at the opposite end of where the nipple was threaded in and slide the coupling over the end of the 3/4" Dia. rod.
The coupling I.D. is .770" so it allows for an easy fit over the .750" O.D. rod. and allows for a little glue thickness between O.D. of rod and I.D. of coupling.
#3 At the opposite end of the rod repeat step #2 but don't put any glue on the nipple when you screw it in and unscrew the nipple back out right after you glue the coupling on the rod.
ALL DONE , NOW YOU CAN SCREW TOGETHER YOU RODS AND UNSCREW THEM FOR STORAGE (CHEAP AND EASY).
An added step if you want to - file a few grooves into the ends of the rod before you glue on the couplings , this gives the glue something to bite into just like it has on the I.D. threads of the coupling.
# I have also included a picture of the parts used to make a mount for the anchor rods, I use on my 21' Ranger Bass boat.
I would have just taken a picture of the mount clamped on my boat but it is not here and in storage right now.
I purchased two 2" steel rings and a 1/4" cable clamp for about $3.00 and took them to a local welder .
Have the shop use a wire feed welder and weld the rings perpendicular to each other (see picture).
Then have them weld one end of the cable clamp to one ring and clamp the other end of the cable clamp to one of the boat's stern rings.
One of the pictures includes the "T" handle with 1/2" male pipe thread fitting I use to screw onto the end of the rod ,
depending whether I'm using one or two rods . Made from 1/2" PVC plastic pipe.
I don't think I emphasized enough the reason I use electrical conduit nipples and couplings rather than regular
water pipe nipples and couplings.
Both electrical conduit threads and water pipe threads are the same threads per inch and can be threaded into
each other (but) water pipe threads are put on a tapered O.D. or I.D. thus called a tapered thread and electrical
conduit threads are put on a straight O.D. or I.D. thus called a straight thread, just like a regular bolt or nut.
The problem is they both are called 1/2" nipples or couplings and both look identical but don't work them same way.
Most guys screwing the shallow water anchors together are going to like the straight electrical conduit threads
better because they don't jam tight as you screw them together because they are not tapered thread and are not
designed to be water tight like a tapered thread is.
Someone using water pipe nipples instead of electric conduit nipples can screw this connecting system
together but the tapered water pipe nipple will get tighter as it is threaded into a coupling rather than just threaded in
until it bottoms on the end of the coupling like a straight electrical conduit thread would.
The use of a regular water pipe coupling however will not work very well at all in the shallow water anchor application
because the I.D. of a water pipe coupling is tapered and it will not have the nice (straight) .770 I.D. that fits over the
(straight) .750 O.D. of the fiberglass rod thus not fitting and gluing to the rod properly and also of course the other
end of the coupling is a tapered I.D. thread and will cause the nipple being threaded into it to jam as you thread it in.
Don't mean to be overly technical but it would be very easy to do this connecting system wrong if guys use the very common
water pipe nipples and couplings.
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